Install Windows 8 On Socket 478 Fan

1. Socket 478 Motherboards For Sale

Yesterday, I spent awhile with a computer shutdown problem that an amateur Enthusiast had. Many of you have seen this problem before. Not all the nylon push-pegs were 'locked-down' despite it looking like they were properly secured. This results in uneven heatsink pressure on the CPU, which causes a shutdown under load. I thought I'd make a couple of recommendations for Enthusiasts and wannabees using heatsinks with this type mounting. Heatsinks with this mounting system include, the stock Intel heatsink found in the Retail package, and aftermarket coolers like the Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro.

Install the power supply in the case first. Seat the heatsink on the motherboard before you put it in the case. This may sound counter-intuitive, but the nylon push-plugs of the mounting (Intel stock cooler and others) are unreliable. Many times mounting the heatsink when the motherboard is already attached to the case's motherboard tray results in only three push-plugs engaging. (Although it looks like all four are correctly engaged.) Not having full contact on the CPU by the heatsink causes a range of mysterious problems. Inspect the installation to ensure that all four plugs are completely through the motherboard and locked down tight.

Attach the 4-pin (6-pin?) motherboard auxiliary power connector to the motherbooard, before you lower the motherboard into the case. (Its hard to attach after the motherboard is in the case, because of the tight fit.). Mount the motherboard to the case's motherboard tray without the heatsink fan attached (if not permanently mounted). Attach the fan after the motherboard is mounted to the case. It helps to have a long (8') Phillips head screwdriver to get to the motherboard mounting screws once the motherboard is in the case. I hope this helps. Originally posted by lostpacket: How could Intel come up with such an abortion?

A very simple behind the board mounting bracket and 4 screws is pretty simple and just as cheap, but far easier to install and stronger. I think that they've always been driven by the concept of a tool-free mounting, or at least a screw-free mounting. And it's both AMD and Intel. I always thought it funny that AMD's mounting designs (Socket A, 754/939/940/AM2) had HOLES for a heatsink to bolt through, but they always went with a snap-on clip (or at best, snap-over-and-pull-a-lever-to-tighten. That's my theory at least. I'd assume that some OEMs dislike the idea of a bolt-through heatsink because it probably changes the workflow in an assembly line too much (the CPU and heatsink must be installed prior to mounting the mainboard in a case, unless someone (and why doesn't someone) designed a mainboard tray with a cut-out to allow access to the rear of the socket. Originally posted by Hak Foo: I always thought it funny that AMD's mounting designs (Socket A, 754/939/940/AM2) had HOLES for a heatsink to bolt through, but they always went with a snap-on clip (or at best, snap-over-and-pull-a-lever-to-tighten.

The socket A had a terrible design - the actual clip attached to the socket, rather than a frame which was secured with holes. I think that the Intel chips of the time also had the same problem (late Pentium 3's.) Not only was it a real bastard to get that thing on and off, especially with a larger HSF (it was easy for the screwdriver to slip and knock off a couple of resistors in the general area) but as the coolers got more exotic (I remember a 500g copper version) it wasn't too uncommon to peel the whole socket from the mobo while moving a case. You kids today with your bolts and levers don't know how good you have it. Originally posted by BigLan: The socket A had a terrible design - the actual clip attached to the socket, rather than a frame which was secured with holes. Socket A was the first major design which gave you two choices: Some boards (from what I understand, it was a mandatory item in early design specs, but became optional later) had four holes in a standardized location, as well as the socket tabs. If you mounted, say, a Zalman 7000 or some of the other top-end stuff of the time, you needed the four holes, but most of the stock and inexpensive aftermarket stuff used the tabs. Technically, Socket A, 370, and 7 had the same basic tabs.

I had a great time slapping a Socket A heatsink on my Socket 7 K6-233 (the hot-running 3.2v core one, famous for having little OC headroom), and getting it to the maximum the board could support (292MHz-3.5x83). Socket 370 sometimes had one extra tab on each side of the socket, and A had a pair of extras on each side, but a lot of sinks never used them.

I'm very surprised to see so many forum members with post counts in excess of a thousand who have negative opinion about the boxed Intel cpu heatsink mounting system for socket T. I like the socket T mounting system. It's the easiest consumer user removable heatsink mounting system I have used. It's not recommended to mount the heatsink with the motherboard outside of the case. If the user chooses to mount the heatsink outside of the case I agree it is easier to access the mounting pushpins.

But the user must place the motherboard on a soft surface to allow the pegs to lock through the board. If the user tries to install the heatsink on a hard surface the mounting pegs are more likely to be damaged. Where I work when new equipment, tools, etc.

Arrive in the engineering department we use the acronym RTFM. This is the socket T processor and heatsink instruction. It is the manual included with retail boxed socket T processors. This post is my personal opinion.

I do not mean to insult anyone. Note: The file is 10MB.

It will take a while to download the PDF file. Originally posted by Hak Foo: Socket 370 sometimes had one extra tab on each side of the socket, and A had a pair of extras on each side, but a lot of sinks never used them. Too bad about that.

I just had the one and only tab break off one of my am2 motherboards. The heat sink has 3 holes, but the socket only had one tab, and many of the am2 heat sinks put a LOT of force on that little tab when you close the lever. I don't much like the push pins either, but they are better than broken tabs on a socket rendering the board useless.

Originally posted by 07cclt1sb: I'm very surprised to see so many forum members with post counts in excess of a thousand who have negative opinion about the boxed Intel cpu heatsink mounting system for socket T. I like the socket T mounting system.

It's the easiest consumer user removable heatsink mounting system I have used. It's not recommended to mount the heatsink with the motherboard outside of the case. If the user chooses to mount the heatsink outside of the case I agree it is easier to access the mounting pushpins.

But the user must place the motherboard on a soft surface to allow the pegs to lock through the board. If the user tries to install the heatsink on a hard surface the mounting pegs are more likely to be damaged.

Where I work when new equipment, tools, etc. Arrive in the engineering department we use the acronym RTFM.

Socket 478 Motherboards For Sale

This is the socket T processor and heatsink instruction. It is the manual included with retail boxed socket T processors.

This post is my personal opinion. I do not mean to insult anyone. Note: The file is 10MB. It will take a while to download the PDF file. The problem is removing the motherboard.

It shouldn't be required to do to make it easier, IMHO. AMDs solution may not be awesome: But it's not any LESS awesome when the motherboard is mounted in the case.

You're right, of course: Installing the heatsink on an un-mounted motherboard, the way that is suggested, is quite easy. But it's still not as easy as AM2, let alone when both the AM2 and the 775 boards are both mounted. Originally posted by 07cclt1sb: I'm very surprised to see so many forum members with post counts in excess of a thousand who have negative opinion about the boxed Intel cpu heatsink mounting system for socket T. I like the socket T mounting system. It's the easiest consumer user removable heatsink mounting system I have used. I think the primary faults with the Socket T mount are: 1.

It's difficult to be assured of a positive mount without taking the board out and looking to see if the pins are all the way through. The pins themselves are plastic which could be fairly easily damaged or broken, leaving you unable to make a positive mount. I like the sinks that bolt through the mainboard for these reasons- it's really fool-proof. Originally posted by lostpacket: Not only is the stock cooler setup horribly designed, but I see many people forget to turn the pin once it is depressed so it 'locks' in place. You've pretty much proven you don't understand it. You turn the pins to unlock. You push them in turned to the locking position so that when they are pushed in far enough they lock.

You can't call something an abortion when you haven't followed basic instructions. FWIW I liked the socket A mount better but there's nothing wrong with the pins. Speaking from a production angle, the Intel retail Socket T heatsink mounting system is pretty good.

No tabs on the socket to break off. No additional parts to futz with (backplates or whatever). Easy audible/mechanical feedback that it's installed properly. Some caveats, of course- we generally install the heatsink with the MB out of the case, and when you do this not one at a time, but hundreds or thousands at a time, a 1% socket tab failure rate is just one more set of failures to deal with.

Eliminating points of failure like this is nice. And you can feel the lock and the click, but an infrequent builder probably wouldn't.

And yes, if I'm hanging a heatsink more than the Intel retail heatsink, I would NOT use push pins. Bolt-through with a backplate please! But for what it does and is intended to do, the push-pins do work fine. I do like a heatsink that bolts through the motherboard and uses a backing plate.

I want to change my mid tower soon and get a powersupply that can handle a two GPU discrete graphics card. The case I have now isn't long enough to fit a two GPU card.

The card I have in my present case takes out a hdd slot. The two GPU card will be a summer upgrade. The case and powersupply upgrade I would like to do before the end of the month. I want to get the new case soon because I want to use my third hdd again. I had to take out my third hdd to accomodate the video card I have now. What a long winded way to say when I get a new case I'll get a bolt through back plate supported heatsink.

Any recommendations for heatsink to cool a X3350 quad. (Q9450) This is my current heatsink fan. Originally posted by 07cclt1sb: Any recommendations for heatsink to cool a X3350 quad. (Q9450) This is my current heatsink fan. I have a Thermalright Ultima-90 with a Scythe Kama 120mm PWM fan on my E3110 and it is both effective and quiet. The Thermalright Ultra-120 and Scythe Ninja are also highly regarded if you have room in your case.

The thermalright coolers come with a backing plate as standard while the Ninja does not, but a bolt-through mount is possible for it by using the thermalright bolt-through kit. Speaking from a production angle, the Intel retail Socket T heatsink mounting system is pretty good.

I'd have to agree. When you get right down to it, the way it attaches to the mainboard is hardly different than Socket 478; the retainer pins snap into the board holes and there is a push pin which secures them. Where I think 775's mechanism falls down is when you have someone who swaps heatsinks more often than most; the retainer pins themselves aren't so robust (I've deformed one or two of the pins on my HR-01 already.). Originally posted by Jim Z: Where I think 775's mechanism falls down is when you have someone who swaps heatsinks more often than most; the retainer pins themselves aren't so robust (I've deformed one or two of the pins on my HR-01 already.) Well, by all accounts your average Joe Delluser won't be switching heatsinks, and your average Jane Enthusiast won't be changing from one retail heatsink to another.

For me, I will be switching out my retail heatsink to something bigger and coppery and Zalmany for cooling performance, not out of concern over the mounting system. Hey, now I have another question: Do Dell machines use Intel's heatsinks? Or do they have something proprietary?

Originally posted by DarkSyd: We had an Intel bulletin (and I suspect the same info is in the manual linked to above) that the heatsink should.not. be installed unless the motherboard is already mounted to the case/tray. The mechanism can exert enough force to bend the motherboard and Intel I'm guessing Intel didn't want to be blamed for damaged boards, although I never saw that happen. FWIW, I too hated it then and still do now. Yeah, on the larger HSF's you can see that the mobo is.noticeably. flexed behind the socket after the HSF is installed. Even the stock Intel HSF flexes the mobo a bit.

Wished it had a backplate, really. I have to agree with Black Jacque and continuum wrt installing the hsf before installing the mobo into the case. Yeh, sure, it takes creating some kind of standoff mechanism on the workbench so that the pushpins seat fully, but it allows for inspection from the backside to be sure that's actually happened. Installed smoothly and correctly the first time, they'll do the job, stay put w/o issues. If otoh, they get borked, which isn't difficult to do, they're crap and a bolt thru replacement is required. I much prefer the current AMD system, however. And I definitely regard the socket A system as superior to the socket 370 method, just because I refused to use any hsf that didn't employ triple-tab mounting.

They were, and still are, too readily available, too cheap, and too obviously superior to go any other way. I even 'rescued' a few socket A boards where the center tab had been hammered by using a sink w/ triple-tab clip- which wouldn't work on S370. Originally posted by 07cclt1sb: I like the socket T mounting system. It's the easiest consumer user removable heatsink mounting system I have used.

The problem isn't removing the HSF. It's putting it back on. Once you get the process down, it works fairly well.

The average enthusiast doesn't do this often enough to learn the tricks, and can't be bothered to read the manual. Of course, this is THEIR fault, but it doesn't make the process any better.

You should look at the mounting for the AMD CPUs (S-939/940 and AM2). They come with a clip-on HSF, but the bracket is bolted to the board. The bolts can be removed, providing a simple and SOLID mounting point for aftermarket HSFs.

If you have a ISO for windows 7 that you burned to a DVD, read on and create a USB flash drive to install from: If you do not have a Windows 7 installation DVD, or it's not up to the Service Pack level currently installed, you can download a legal copy with SP1 integrated from here: Make sure you get the same version you have, Home Premium, Pro or Ultimate and 32 or 64 bit. Note that Basic or Starter is not available.

I recommend using at 4X speed (or the slowest available) to create the DVD from the downloaded.iso file. Just be careful during the install not to accidentally install some of the bundled junk that comes with it. Always take The Custom Install option. You can do this on any computer capable of burning a DVD.

YOU MUST HAVE A VALID KEY TO INSTALL THIS.ISO. The one on the COA sticker on your computer will work.

You can also create a bootable USB Flash drive (4GB or larger) to install Windows 7 from. Download and run. Select Windows 7 from the first drop down list, all the way to the bottom.

Select the downloaded Windows 7 iso file. Select your USB flash drive. Click Create For techies or folks who work on computers:.

This will fit on a 6GB flash drive or can be burned to a DVD. Unplug all other HD's and peripherals, Boot into BIOS setup, reset to defaults, save changes. If an EFI BIOS you'll need to decide if you want If otherwise enable Legacy BIOS or Compatibility Support Module to proceed with normal install: Set DVD drive first to boot, HD second, set SATA controller to AHCI, Save changes and Exit. Then boot into Windows 7 installer DVD or flash stick burned or written using tool and latest ISO for your licensed OS version I would use a fresh ISO written with tool in Step 2 as yours is in question.

At first installer screen Press Shift + F10, or enter to open a Command Box, type: DISKPART LIST DISK SELECT DISK 0 (after confirming Windows 7 target HD #) CLEAN CREATE PARTITION PRIMARY FORMAT FS=NTFS LABEL='WINDOWS 7' ACTIVE EXIT EXIT Next click Install Now, then Custom install to to the partition you created. If it fails then report back at which step and the verbatim error message. In addition read over these steps to understand the tools and methods which work best to get and maintain a perfect The steps are the same for retail.

After install you can adjust partition size or Create new partitions for data, etc. In Disk Mgmt.

You are creating the partition here for the purpose of wiping the HD and marking Active which overcomes certain install failures. Similar help and support threads Thread Forum Hello, I bought windows 7 32 bit to run on my pentium 4.the microsoft page said it could run it. When i put it in, it took 4 hours to install. The rate was 2.4 GHz. I now dont trust that page.

I'm upgrading to a pentium d running at 3GHz. I would like to hear from people running or have. General Discussion Hello all Friends. CPU Intel Pentium D 930 3.0 Ghz. M/B Intel D945PSN RAM 2GB/667.2 (4GB.) VGA Nividia Geforce 440 OS Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit General Discussion Hello.

I'm sure this has been answered, but my google skills are shabby and I'm not entirely positive what I am looking for. About a year ago, our Pentium D died and I was able to retain a few pieces from the machine, enough actually to rebuild it shortly. My main question is this: I already.

Hardware & Devices My pc has a intel pentium 4 in it and I JUST enabled Hyper threading does ht help performance or no? My specs are old I KNOW dont say so please!:) Specs Pentium 4 3GHZ 4gb ram 1tb hdd everything else doesnt matter so question is does ht help or no? Hardware & Devices I have an older laptop with Pentium M 1.6 GHz, 1GB RAM, an Intel graphics card on the mobo. I am having trouble sharing files with a box with 64 bit Windows 7. Someone said it's better to have the same OS. Is it possible to run 32 bit Win 7 on the oldie (of course, with Aero off)? Installation & Setup Our Sites Site Links About Us Find Us.